Midwest Explorin'

Off Roading in the land of beer, brats, and cheese.

So last weekend I had a nice afternoon and decided to install my lift and new shocks on my 2004 Land Cruiser. As I mentioned in a prior post, I had purchased a set of Fox Shocks 2.0 (non-reservoir) for my truck. These are good for 0-1” lifts. For the lift, I have a set of 30mm rear spacers and did a T-bar crank in the front.

For the install, I had every intention of taking tons of pictures for a build thread on Mud, but after getting immensely angry at the rear upper shock nuts, that idea went out the window. As a result, the top photo and this one are the only shots I actually took.


In order to get the rear shocks out, I actually needed to drill a 1 3/8” hole in the floor plan on each side so that I could use my impact wrench. I then plugged the holes with these hole plugs:

Getting the springs out wasn’t nearly as difficult as I had thought. Detach a few brackets and swaybar, support the pumpkin with a jack, then use a second jack to lift one side forcing the other to drop.


The front was fairly easy as well. With a little bit of work and extensions, I was able to reach the top shock nuts with my impact through the engine bay. For both the front and the back, the bottom nuts were easy.

As for lifting the front, for those of you that don’t know, the Land Cruiser 100 uses a torsion bar suspension set up, wherein a rod is twisted to provide spring resistance. For T-bar vehicles, lifting is basically as simple as cranking the adjustment nut. For this generation of LC, a rake of at least 1” must be maintained for handling purposes. At first I only had a rake of 1/2” back to front, and front end felt very “floaty”. Adjusting it down to 1” firmed it right back up.


Overall I lifted the vehicle about 1.25” which is not much, but its hard enough as is for my wife to get in. I will say the springs in the back looked rougher than I had expected, so I might be replacing them sooner rather than later. In that case, I will probably upgrade to a 2-2.5” lift, which will require the use of a diff drop bracket in the front.

Next I will be installing a Yellow Box speed calibration unit so that my speedo and MPG reflect reality. Normally I wouldn’t bother, but it was only $110 and can be programmed for tires or gears in the future.


For non-mods I also replaced my front skid plate as its Midwestern roots were showing, and I will be replacing my gas tank skid for the same reason.

So to recap my progress:

Original everything


New Tires: 275/70R18 General Grabber AT2 (plus some mud)


Current: Tires + 30mm lift


Ps. I know the lift isn’t readily apparent, but considering how often I hit my calf on the running boards (also need to go),

Share This Story

Get our newsletter